Cosquín Rock, un festival de canciones y almas

Por Hérmes Domínguez / Fotografía Fabián Vargas Arévalo

En esta sociedad competitiva, donde la individualización prepondera sobre cualquier otro canon de convivencia, Cosquín Rock rompe el molde para conceder un acto poético dentro de la industria de la música y la composición de eventos masivos.

El festival que tiene como escenografía las sierras cordobesas ha logrado mantener, e incluso potenciar, su mística después de 19 ediciones, transformándose en uno de los encuentros musicales más importantes de América Latina.

Para aquellos que disfrutamos del rock, el pueblo de Santa María de Punilla se convierte durante los días de festival en un paraíso, donde todo gira en torno a la música. En cada rincón se escucha al Pato, al Indio, La Renga, Skay, La Vela Puerca, Las Pelotas, entre otros clásicos. Y siempre van acompañados por un coro de fanáticos que cantan con el corazón en la mano, como si estuviesen en pleno recital. Nunca te sentirás solo. Da igual si no conoces al de al lado, mientras éste reconozca la canción, te acompañará en el ritual.

Es que el sentimiento de pertenencia en Cosquín no se basa en el tipo de prenda que utilices o en las marcas y productos que ostentes, pues si bien todo responde a una estética, aquí lo que verdaderamente une a las personas es el rock… el rock y el fernet.

Los peregrinos se caracterizan por ser cabros y cabras que agarran su mochila, le echan un par de pantalones cortos, dos o tres poleras y se lanzan a la ruta. También destacan padres que llevan a sus hijos a dar sus primeros pasos en el camino del rock, mientras que los más veteranos dejan en casa toda construcción social sobre la edad para disfrutar como si volvieran a ser unos veinteañeros. Toda esta tribu cosquinera resurge las raíces del rock and roll. Hippies en tiempos modernos. Indios latinos con guitarra eléctrica y comunicados a través de internet.

Y es precisamente en ese espacio-tiempo donde aflora la esencia del Cosquín, en la hermandad que germina entre personas que nunca antes se habían visto, pero se encuentran, se reconocen y saben que las mueve el mismo sentimiento. Las mismas ansias. La misma pasión.

Fernet, cervezas, choripanes, asados en improvisadas parrillas y trapos con frases sacadas de canciones; pura filosofía de tablón tan característica del rock argentino, riegan los jardines del edén cordobés. A eso se le suman las eternas previas en el río, entre chapuzones, risas, alcohol y canciones al unísono.

Los fanáticos trasandinos juegan de local y saben que su música manda, mientras que los foráneos nos mimetizamos y hacemos propios sus acordes y existenciales letras, pero también sus conflictos sociales. El descontento contra el gobierno de turno, contra la policía, contra los empresarios del fútbol terminan siendo temáticas universales, pues sea cual sea tu lugar de origen llegarás a puntos de encuentro entre la realidad de tu país y sus críticas. Y será tal la similitud que terminarás cantando “Mauricio Macri, la puta que te parió” con la misma rabia que los pibes. El hit del verano, como dijo Mariano Martínez de Attaque 77. 

Llenos de vida, llenos de magia

Llegar no es sencillo. Desde el aeropuerto de Córdoba, o desde el centro, son cerca de 50 kilómetros y un puñado de horas hasta arribar al aeródromo de Santa María de Punilla. Pero esto no es escollo suficiente para que cada año el número de asistentes aumente, llegando a las más de 120 mil almas en su versión 2019, provenientes de todas partes de Argentina y Latinoamérica. No por nada dicen que es el festival más federal del país.

Todo convive en perfecta armonía sobre el predio de diez hectáreas, que a su vez es dividido en seis escenarios: dos principales, el norte y el sur, que están lo suficientemente distanciados entre sí para que los sonidos en simultáneos no se transgredan, pero también para darle la preponderancia y espacio necesario a las actuaciones más convocantes de cada jornada. Los otros cuatro son más pequeños y están destinados –mayoritariamente– a ritmos alternativos, exponentes del blues, rock pesado y artistas más novatos.

Al amplio menú musical, nutrido por 134 shows distribuidos en dos días, se le suman bares que expiden fernet y cerveza, una feria gastronómica, merchandising del festival y distintas actividades no musicales, como juegos, puntos de descanso, exhibiciones de deportes extremos, entre otras. Todo pensado en enriquecer la experiencia de los peregrinos, que en promedio caminan 15 kilómetros desplazándose entre sus bandas favoritas en las más de doce horas por jornada que están dentro del predio.

Cosquín Rock es el lugar perfecto para que el público conozca nuevas propuestas musicales, pero también funciona como trampolín para aquellas bandas que aprovechan su oportunidad. El caso más emblemático es Él Mató a un Policía Motorizado, que hizo su debut en 2018 y este año se consagró como una banda festivalera de alta convocatoria. 

Sin embargo, el premio mayor de esta experiencia llega cuando suenan los primeros acordes de esa banda que impulsó tus anhelos de viajar y vivir Cosquín. En mi caso, el retorno de Don Osvaldo a las sierras fue el puntapié inicial de todo. Por eso, al escuchar los primeros riff de Morir y al Pato cantar “en hojas muy viejas me leo el futuro…” mi ritmo cardiaco aumentó y la sensibilidad se tornó a flor de piel.

Una canción en vivo tiene ese don. Es ese momento de lucidez en que abres rondas, abrazas, generas lazos que más tarde pueden significar nada, pero en ese instante lo son todo. Se pierde la noción del tiempo, desaparecen los miedos y todos los sueños se escapan en un grito.

Puede que aquella no hay sido la mejor presentación de la banda a la que he asistido, pero los factores sí alteraron el producto y es –hasta ahora– la que más atesoro. Y así mismo con La Vela Puerca, cargada de emoción, Ciro y los Persas, con una calidad musical y una puesta en escena brillante; Skay y los Fakires, Las Pelotas, La 25 y otros tantos grupos que pusieron la nota alta en la versión 19, la que disfrutamos llenos de vida, llenos de magia. 

Los más entendidos aseguran que sin lluvia no hay Cosquín. Por eso, siempre se espera que al menos durante una jornada se presenten aguaceros y tormentas eléctricas. Sin embargo, y pese a todo pronóstico meteorológico, el cielo pudo esperar. La lluvia y los constantes flashes en el firmamento llegaron recién en el epílogo del segundo día, aunque su intensidad cobró venganza por la ausencia previa. Los que más sufrimos fuimos los que alojábamos en carpa; la lluvia de Santa María de Punilla empapó todo a su paso, aunque a esa altura Cosquín ya nos había remojado el alma.

“La vida son dos días y un Cosquín”, reza una conocida frase. Yo sólo quiero volver.

>Revisa la galería de imagenes tomadas por nuestro compañero Fabián Vargas Arévalo Aquí.

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